My Cooktown Four Wheel Drive Adventure

4WD Road Trip From Cairns To Cooktown

One of my solo trip highlights in North Tropical Queensland was the four-wheel-drive road trip adventure to Cooktown. Initially, my idea was to drive by myself, but I wouldn’t have been able to drive the Bloomfield track north of Cape Tribulation with my little campervan. This is one of the most difficult four-wheel tracks in Australia. If you want to experience this part of the Outback, I recommend joining a guided 4WD tour from Cairns to Cooktown.

Crossing The Bloomfield Track On 4WD

I picked a small tour operator based in Cairns that operates four-wheel-drive tours to Cooktown and specialises in Aboriginal Tours. I was booked on the two-day adventure tour. We left Cairns at 7:00 a.m. After reaching Cape Tribulation on sealed roads; we drove onto the Bloomfield Track gravel roads. This four-wheel-drive track stretches through the Daintree Rainforest on steep, corrugated, and bumpy dirt roads, and it’s not something for novice four-wheel drivers like myself.

The landscape we saw was magnificent, with dense forest, pristine mangrove beaches, top hills, and lookouts with stunning ocean views. After crossing the Bloomfield River, we reached our first stop at the Wujal Wujal Aboriginal Community and their Bana Yirriji Art & Cultural Centre. We could visit the artists’ works and get a refreshment from the on-site cafe.

The Lions Den Hotel

The Lions Den Hotel is the iconic pub and pit stop of our 4WD adventure. From this point, the landscape changes dramatically from the rich vegetation of the forest into a barren, dry land with outback colours. We drove for 60 minutes to the iconic pub, the Lions Den Hotel. It is an excellent Pub with superb Aussie memorabilia from the gold rush and miners’ past. It’s one of the oldest pubs in Australia. Next to the pub is a campground where you can stay overnight and swim in the Annan River.

Discover Cooktown Historic Centre

Although the Bloomfield track is only 100km long, our 4WD trip to Cooktown took nearly 4 hours. We arrived in Cooktown early in the afternoon, with plenty of sunshine to take in the landscape from Grassy Hill. This is the main lookout in Cooktown. It offers a majestic 360°view of the ocean on one side and the picturesque river inlets on the western side. It’s also an excellent spot for watching the sunset.

Things To See And Do In Cooktown

At first, Cooktown seemed tiny, but it reminded me of Alice Springs. The more you walk around, the more you discover.

James Cook Museum

The James Cook Museum is the biggest attraction in town next to Grassy Hill, but due to its opening times (it closes at 4 p.m.), I missed out on visiting it. I enjoyed walking along the Cooktown historic centre and taking in its old buildings, which display the gold rush and mining past. I also enjoyed its gardens and rich vegetation and its relaxing seafront promenade.

Aboriginal Discovery Tour

The Aboriginal Tour the following day was the highlight of my 4WD tour in Cooktown. I had heard much about Willie Gordon’s tours. I was booked on his tour three years ago but had to cancel due to flooding. His tours are exceptional and somehow different from other Aboriginal tours.

We learned much about life, death, birth, survival, and the Aboriginal community’s survival in a few hours. First, his tour is a lesson in living. Willie’s talk was loaded with energy and love, triggering deep emotions in everyone participating. The stories he told us hooked me up and made me think about many things. I can highly recommend going on Willie’s Gordon Tour. They are available as The Bama Way tours led by Willie’s Gordon.

From Cooktown To Cairns through the Highway

On the way back from Cooktown to Cairns, we drove on the highway, a fully sealed road, which was everything but boring. This 300 km highway goes through beautiful landscapes, sweeping plains, and ranges. The highlight is the Black Mountain, a stunning rock formation with a mysterious story about the Aboriginal Juju Yalanji People. Kathy, our driver and guide, told us about the extraordinary tale.

I recommend spending 2-3 days to make the most of it by visiting Cooktown. There is a beautiful Mount Cook Hiking trail. If you have more time to spend in Cooktown, it is worth it.

Guided 4WD Adventure From Cairns To Cooktown

As a solo traveller, the best way to organize your four-wheel-drive adventure from Cairns is to go on a tour. Still, if you are an expert 4W driver, you can hire a vehicle and do it yourself if you trust yourself expert enough to drive alone on the rough terrain of the northernmost part of the East Coast of Australia. Here are some of the tools I recommend using to book your adventure.

Related Guides:

The Best Cairns Trips
What To Do In Cairns 
Australian Destinations

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This article was first published in 2014 and last updated in April 2024

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