A 4 Day-Itinerary In South Tyrol Dolomites

Here is the wrap-up of my  South Tyrol trip, the northernmost part of Italy. It is home to the beautiful Dolomites, a UNESCO Heritage Site since 2009, a region rich in naturalistic treasures and cultural diversity, where the Austrian-Italian traditions blend. I was happy to go back after my hiking trip in 2013 to explore new places and revisit old ones. So, here is what I did in four days of adventure in the Northern Dolomites.

How to visit South Tyrol in the Dolomites

South Tyrol is only a 3.5-hour train ride from the North East and 2.5 hours from Venice, Italy. While I sit on the Frecce Train from Verona to Bolzano, I cannot stop looking out the window, gawping at the perfectly terraced farm fields covered with fruit trees and vineyards. I realise I’ve forgotten how beautiful Trentino South Tyrol is for one second.

Bolzano – The getaway to the Dolomites

When I am in Bolzano, I soon feel at home. This charming town is the hub and getaway to all Dolomites tours. Walking through the lively Walther Square, I marvel at the beautiful cathedral and stroll along the laneways to the Piazza Delle Erbe. With its colourful buildings and the smell of fresh products, it welcomes me to the heart of South Tyrol.

Bolzano, Italy’s northernmost city, is where to stay for day hikes and trips in the surrounding mountains. You don’t need a car here thanks to the excellent bus service. Buses take you anywhere you want. It is one of Italy’s most efficient public bus networks and a fantastic one for a mountain region. It is also a huge benefit for those who travel solo and don’t want to hire a car when visiting Bolzano and the Dolomites.

Where to stay in Bolzano – What I recommend

There are many different types of accommodation, from budget B&B to average and luxury hotels. If you are looking for a classy hotel centrally located in a fully refurbished palace with all amenities and a gorgeous garden. In that case, Hotel Laurin is a top-notch choice with a  superb continental breakfast included in the room rate. If you love luxury at a more affordable price, stay at the Hotel.

Day 1. Wine-tasting in Tramin

On my first day, I discovered picturesque villages in the southern region of Bolzano. On our way, we first stop at Lake Caldaro, with a relaxing terrace and restaurant overlooking the calm emerald waters. Here, vineyards grow between 200 and 1000 meters altitude.

Thanks to the sandy, calcareous soil rich in minerals, South Tyrol wines fully embody those characteristics that make them truly special. Gerürztraminer – white wine –  and Lagrein – red wine – are two of the premium wines of South Tyrol, to name a few. Our next stop is at the ancient cellar Elena Walch, a mother-and-daughters-run winery nestled in the hills of Tramin, or Termeno.

After visiting their remarkable cellar with antique wooden casks featuring legends and characters of the past, the wine tasting is a discovery of new flavours, fragrances, and distinct mineralisation characteristics. I can highly recommend going on a wine-tasting tour when in Bolzano.

Day. 2. E-bike Tour of Alpe di Siusi

I had been to Alpe di Siusi in 2015 on a hiking trip to Mount Sciliar (Schlern), one of my favourite places, so it was a pleasure to come back and explore more. We reach the Alpe di Siusi by a ten-minute cable car ride. Here a self-guided e-bike tour awaits me. It is my first e-bike experience, and I’m excited.

E-bikes are battery-powered mountain bikes with pedal aid. It’s pretty much like a regular bike but with full control of how much pedal-aid you want. It was good fun, and the boost for pedalling uphill was a relief! The ride takes us through deep valleys and high pastures covered by yellow flowers and pink mountain roses. While we sweep past groups of hikers, we make our way up to the Sanon Hut.

Here is time for lunch: Röstkartoffeln (roasted potatoes), Frittata Soup, and a homemade Marillenstrudel as dessert. That’s my delicious South Tyrolean meal to fill up with energy and complete my Alpe di Siusi bike tour.

Day 3. A day trip to Mount San Vigilio, Lana

Located northwest of Bolzano, Lana is a lovely picturesque village worth visiting. Only 20 minutes drive by car or train ride, it makes for a fabulous day-trip from Bolzano. From Lana, we take a thrilling cable car ride up to the San Vigilio, a.k.a. Vigiljoch, the starting point to 5 circular hiking trails.

The view from the cable car is just breathtaking. At San Vigilio Station, there is a chairlift to the hilltop. We took the chairlift and then descended through the path downhill.

The embracing peace and silence that reigns there is something impressive. When we get back to the base, we stop at Hotel Vigilius, a gorgeous mountain resort hosting the South Tyrol Jazz Festival’s music and food event.

Here I am pleased to listen to Kadri Voorand, an artist and musician from Estonia. And yes, it’s time for a second wine tasting with top red wines from the latest Vernatsch Contest in South Tyrol.

I don’t manage all six wine tastings, but I’m good to have three to match the tasty food, local cheeses and one of my favourite dishes, the “Spinat-Knödel! (dumplings made with bread and spinach). It’s tough to leave this place on a warm sunny afternoon with a good vibe and nature at its best!

Day 4. Discovering The Passo Delle Erbe in the Val Badia

This place is another hit from my South Tyrol Trip. For the first time, I visited Passo Delle Erbe, a.k.a. Würzjoch. We get to the 2000-meter high pass early on Sunday morning, ready to enjoy another fun Jazz & Food 2018 day. A deep blue sky and sunnyness make it a perfect start to the circular hiking trail that takes us through the Puez Geisler Nature Reserve’s stunning green meadows.

The view of the massive Sass de Putia mountain that stands out with its peaks is just astounding. It is one of the most picturesque spots of geological significance in the Dolomites. It is one of the few places in the Dolomites where you can see the mountains’ rock layers’ stratification to know how the Dolomites were born out of the sea.

Why visit South Tyrol during the Jazz Festival

I went to Bolzano on purpose at the end of June because of the Südtirol Jazz Festival. The festival hosts over 150 musicians worldwide to perform and entertain people anywhere: from towns and urban spaces on the streets, in the squares, at lakes, rivers, castles and in mountain huts and mountain resorts. The festival starts on the last Friday of June and ends ten days later.

This year’s theme was the Northern European Musicians gathered in South Tyrol to play together with Euregio Collective, a local musicians’ association. With over 50 concerts throughout the region, it is an excellent event for all music lovers. If you can, plan your Dolomites trip when the Jazz Festival is on.

I loved the Jazz & Food experience. This event is an occasion to experience these places more differently and authentically, by walking or cycling in the beautiful landscapes and learning about its rich cultural and culinary traditions. South Tyrol in the Dolomites is perfect for nature lovers and epicurean travellers.

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First published in 2018, last updated in Feb 2024

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